e, rather than to intentional insult. They are not house-broken
to their new capital, that is all, and that will come in time. Their
malicious jealousy peeps out in all sorts of ways. In the lower house
of the Prussian Diet, recently, a member protested vigorously against
the employment of an American singer in the Opera House! Chauvinism
carried to this extreme becomes comic, and is noted here only to
indicate to what depths of farm-yard provinciality some of the
citizens of this great city can descend.
They are dreamers and sentimentalists too. There are more kissing,
more fondling, more exuberance of affection, more displays of
friendliness in Germany in a week than in England and America in six
months. I confess without shame that I like to see it, and when it
comes my way, as beyond my deserts it has, I like to feel it. How
lasting is this friendliness I have no means of knowing till the years
to come tell me, but that it is a pleasant atmosphere to live in there
can be no doubt.
The driving is of the very worst. A man behind a horse, or horses, who
knows even the elements of handling the reins and the whip and the
brake, would be a curiosity indeed. I have not seen a dozen coachmen,
private or public, to whom my youngest child could not have given
invaluable suggestions as to the bitting, harnessing, and handling of
his cattle. On the other hand, I one day saw a street sign twisted out
of its place. I was fascinated by this unexampled mark of negligence.
I determined to watch that sign; alas, within forty-eight hours it was
put right again.
Let it not be understood that there are no fine horses to be seen in
Berlin. You will go far to find a better lot of horse-flesh, or
better-looking men on the horses, than you will see when the Kaiser
rides by to the castle after his morning exercise; and he sits his
horse and manages him with the easy skill of the real horseman, and
looks every inch a king besides. It is told of Daniel Webster, walking
in London, that a navvy turned to his companion and remarked: "That
bloke must be a king!" You would say the same of the Kaiser if you saw
him on horseback.
At horse shows and in the Tiergarten, and in riding-places in other
cities, I have looked at hundreds of horses, and, if I mistake not,
Germany is both buying and breeding the very best in the way of
mounts, though their civilian riders are often of the scissors
variety. There are comparatively few harness horses, a
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