s intelligence made me apprehensive that we might be another month in
getting through these obstacles, and determined me to renew my efforts
to obtain camels and proceed to the Pasha by land. I had made several
attempts to hire some for this purpose, during the last fifteen days,
without success. The man above mentioned informed me that I could
probably obtain some at a village about six hours off. I determined to
send my servants on the morrow to inquire.

5th of Safa. Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning
a favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail. Was
obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind
held. Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them
cultivated, and a few small villages. I was informed that these will
become more frequent as we proceed. During this day, with a favorable
wind, made only about twelve miles against the current.

6th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong
breeze from the northward. About half an hour after quitting the land,
passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching nearly
across the river. In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half a
minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven
feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened,
and forced the boat up the current, to the great relief of all on board.
An hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by
a high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications
made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is
a fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and
plantations.

Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids
of formidable appearance being right ahead.[13] We have made about eight
miles to-day. Saw about two miles above us a number of boats lying to
the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just mentioned. About the
middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, saw a crocodile;
it was small, about three feet in length. When I came upon him, he was
sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with great rapidity
and plunged into the river.

7th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the
rocks and rapids already mentioned. The passage was dangerous, and the
boat thrice in imminent peril. We struck once on ro