he river, her
masts alone appearing out of the water. The river here is interrupted
by several high insulated rocks. We had been assured that we should
now find the river open and without difficulty, till we should come
to Succoot; the appearance of this boat seemed to contradict this
representation, and in about an hour after we had abundant reason to be
satisfied that it was false. I was congratulating myself that we had got
into smooth water, and indulging myself with a tranquil pipe of tobacco,
when suddenly the wind slackened just as we were passing between two
ledges of rocks where the river was running at the rate of about six
knots an hour. The current overpowered the effort of the sails, and
carried the boat directly among the reefs, near the west bank of
the river. After remaining for about ten minutes in a very perilous
position, the skill of our Rais happily got the boat to shore without
injury.

3d of Safa. We remained all night at the place where we landed; in
the morning got under sail to pass the strong current we had attempted
yesterday without success. After buffeting about for an hour we were
forced to return to the bank of the river, and await a stronger wind. In
about an hour after the wind freshened and we got under way with better
fortune, and after passing the current before mentioned found ourselves
in smooth water. After sailing for an hour we stopped for ten minutes
at a place where we saw sheep, in order to purchase some, having for
the last twenty days been obliged to live on bread, rice, and lentils.
Succeeded in purchasing two lambs. The banks of the river hereabouts
present some fertile spots, a few of them cultivated. About noon the
wind fell and the Rais put to shore; we immediately set our domestics
about preparing the purchased meat, and shortly after we sat down to
this regale, which appeared to me the most delicious meal I had eaten
for many years.[12] Remained here for the remainder of the day.

4th of Safa. Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient
wind to ascend the river. About two hours after noon arrived an Arab
from above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few miles
below us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of the
crew, had been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to pass
a rapid. I demanded of him "how many rapids there were yet ahead;" he
replied "that there were several; how many he did not exactly know."
Thi