ght have been avoided if they had been a
little more patient in Rome. There will be all sorts of complications
and bitter feeling, and I don't quite see what benefit the country at
large will get from the present state of things. A general feeling of
irritation and uncertainty, higher taxes--for they must build
school-houses and pay lay-teachers and country cures. A whole generation
of children cannot be allowed to grow up without religious instruction
of any kind. I can understand how the association of certain religious
orders (men) could be mischievous--harmful even--but I am quite sure
that no one in his heart believes any harm of the women--soeurs de
charite and teachers--who occupy themselves with the old people, the
sick, and the children. In our little town they have sent away an old
sister who had taught and generally looked after three generations of
children. When she was expelled she had been fifty years in the town and
was teaching the grandchildren of her first scholars. Everybody knew
her, everybody loved her; when any one was ill or in trouble she was
always the first person sent for. Now there is at the school an
intelligent, well-educated young laique with all the necessary brevets.
I dare say she will teach the children very well, but her task ends with
the close of her class. She doesn't go to church, doesn't know the
people, doesn't interest herself in all their little affairs, and will
never have the position and the influence the old religieuse had.

I am sorry to go away from this quiet little green corner of Normandy,
but we have taken the requisite number of baths. Every one rushes off as
soon as the last bath (twenty-first generally) is taken. Countess F.
took her twenty-first at six o'clock this morning, and left at ten.

IX

A NORMAN TOWN

VALOGNES, August.

I seem to have got into another world, almost another century, in this
old town. I had always promised the Florians I would come and stay
with them, and was curious to see their installation in one of the
fine old hotels of the place. The journey was rather long--not
particularly interesting. We passed near Caen, getting a very good
view of the two great abbayes[13] with their towers and spires quite
sharply outlined against the clear blue sky. The train was full. At
almost every station family parties got in--crowds of children all
armed with spades, pails, butterfly nets, and rackets, all the
paraphernalia of happy, healt