face, it is easy to
imagine the deadly cold winds that sweep across it. The lakes were
now frozen over, and the valley was one even sheet of spotless snow
lying dazzling under the sun. It is this combination of sun and snow
which causes so much discomfort and snow blindness; I had before crossed
this same pass in December on a cloudy day, and although the whole of it
was covered with freshly fallen snow, I did not even find it necessary
to wear the goggles I had in my pocket ready for use.

[Illustration: The Shandur Pass.]

The distance from Langar on the east to the village of Laspur on the
west of the pass is not more than ten miles, yet Borradaile's party,
leaving Langar at daybreak, did not reach Laspur till seven o'clock at
night.

Strange as it may seem, the men suffered greatly from thirst, and from
some mistaken idea of becoming violently ill if they did so, they
refused to eat the snow through which they were floundering. Towards
evening, as they reached the western end of the pass, three men,
evidently an outpost of the enemy, were seen to bolt from behind some
rocks and make good their escape, in spite of an attempt by the Levies
to catch them.

The descent from the pass to the village of Laspur is some two miles
long, and down a steep and rather narrow ravine. The Hunza Levies
covered the spurs on each side, while the Pioneers descended down the
centre. So sudden and unexpected was their arrival that the inhabitants
were caught in the village, and naturally expressed their extreme
delight at this unexpected visit--so polite of them, wasn't it? They
also said that they would be glad to help us in any way we desired. They
were taken at their word, and sent back next day to bring on the guns,
while that night they were politely requested to clear out of some of
their houses, which were quickly put into a state of defence and
occupied by our troops. Supplies were also required of the village.

The next day was spent by the detachment in completing the defences, and
collecting supplies and coolies. Towards evening a report was brought in
that the enemy had collected to the number of about a hundred some three
miles away. So Borradaile took out some of the men to reconnoitre. Some
men were seen in the distance, but these the Levies declared to be only
villagers, and as it was getting dusk, the party returned to camp, only
then learning that a levy had been taken prisoner. The man had gone some
distance ahea