shall therefore
describe in this place, observing that much more simplicity still
prevails among the former, who look upon the others as coxcombs who lay
out all their substance on their backs, whilst in their turns they are
regarded by the Malays with contempt as unpolished rustics.

MAN'S DRESS.

A man's dress consists of the following parts. A close waistcoat, without
sleeves, but having a neck like a shirt, buttoned close up to the top,
with buttons, often of gold filigree. This is peculiar to the Malays.
Over this they wear the baju, which resembles a morning gown, open at the
neck, but generally fastened close at the wrists and halfway up the arm,
with nine buttons to each sleeve. The sleeves, however, are often wide
and loose, and others again, though nearly tight, reach not far beyond
the elbow, especially of those worn by the younger females, which, as
well as those of the young men, are open in front no farther down than
the bosom, and reach no lower than the waist, whereas the others hang
loose to the knees, and sometimes to the ankles. They are made usually of
blue or white cotton cloth; for the better sort, of chintz; and for great
men, of flowered silks. The kain-sarong is not unlike a Scots
highlander's plaid in appearance, being a piece of party-coloured cloth
about six or eight feet long and three or four wide, sewed together at
the ends; forming, as some writers have described it, a wide sack without
a bottom. This is sometimes gathered up and slung over the shoulder like
a sash, or else folded and tucked about the waist and hips; and in full
dress it is bound on by the belt of the kris (dagger), which is of
crimson silk and wraps several times round the body, with a loop at the
end in which the sheath of the kris hangs. They wear short drawers
reaching halfway down the thigh, generally of red or yellow taffeta.
There is no covering to their legs or feet. Round their heads they
fasten, in a particular manner, a fine, coloured handkerchief, so as to
resemble a small turban; the country people usually twisting a piece of
white or blue cloth for this purpose. The crown of their head remains
uncovered except on journeys, when they wear a tudong or umbrella-hat,
which completely screens them from the weather.

WOMAN'S DRESS.

The women have a kind of bodice, or short waistcoat rather, that defends
the breasts and reaches to the hips. The kain-sarong, before described,
comes up as high as the armpits, a