est quality, sharp, clean, and always
kept ready for use. Take the pruning knife for example. If this is not
sharp it is impossible to make the necessary _clean_ cut. The surface
will be jagged and rough, and probably promote disease. Some prefer
_secateurs_, and while admitting their value for pruning purposes, a
good sharp knife is preferable; it is not so heavy, and does not tire
the hand. There are several of these implements in the market, but the
best that has come under my notice is the "improved double cutting"; it
is easy to work and cuts clean. For standard trees use the "Standard
Tree Pruner."

CHAPTER VII

PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS

If we were to take many books about trees and shrubs or general
gardening as a guide, one might be led to think that only one way of
increasing a tree or shrub existed, and that by grafting; but, as we
have pointed out elsewhere, it is a mischievous practice when
indiscriminately applied. It is _not_ contended by this that grafting
and budding are utterly needless, as in many instances these methods may
be rightly adopted, but the four natural ways of increase are by layers,
seeds, suckers, and cuttings. Many trees and shrubs are much better when
grafted upon other stocks.

Of these, practise seed-raising whenever possible; but if seeds cannot
be procured, then adopt other ways, and the man is wise who tries to
keep a plant on its own roots. Neither budding nor grafting should be
resorted to, unless other means fail absolutely. When standard trees
cannot be got true from seed, budding or grafting must be practised, and
the evils of these methods of propagation are not so pronounced in such
cases as with dwarf plants. With the former, suckers, or growths from
the stock, are easily seen as soon as they appear, but with dwarf
plants a perfect forest of suckers may seriously weaken the plant before
they are noticed.

SEEDS.--These can be sown at almost any time, but the spring is the
best, as those which germinate quickly have time to form strong young
plants before the following winter. Some take two years to come up, and
should be left in the ground. This refers more to seeds sown outdoors,
and few hardy trees and shrubs require heat to assist germination. When
sown in the open the beds should be made on a fairly rich, moist piece
of ground, protected from cold winds, but fully exposed to the sun.
After the seeds are sown, cover them with light tiffany sha