3

VIII. THE MARKETS OF MOSCOW 77

IX. THE NOSE REGIMENT 88

X. THE EMPEROR'S BEAR-HUNT 92

XI. RUSSIAN HUMOR 97

XII. A MYSTERIOUS ADVENTURE 104

XIII. THE DENOUEMENT 125

XIV. THE KREMLIN 134

XV. RUSSIAN MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 155

XVI. DESPOTISM _versus_ SERFDOM 165

XVII. REFORM IN RUSSIA 170

XVIII. A BOND OF SYMPATHY 185

XIX. CIVILIZATION IN RUSSIA 193

XX. PASSAGE TO REVEL 209

XXI. REVEL AND HELSINGFORS 218

XXII. A BATHING SCENE 227

XXIII. ABO--FINLAND 236

XXIV. STOCKHOLM 248

XXV. WALKS ABOUT STOCKHOLM 262

XXVI. THE GOTHA CANAL 272

XXVII. VOYAGE TO CHRISTIANA 291

XXVIII. FROM CHRISTIANIA TO LILLEHAMMER 302

XXIX. HOW THEY TRAVEL IN NORWAY 310

XXX. A NORWEGIAN GIRL 317

XXXI. HOW THEY LIVE 335

XXXII. JOHN BULL ABROAD 354

XXXIII. WOMEN IN NORWAY AND GERMANY 361

XXXIV. DOWN THE DRIVSDAL 368

XXXV. A NORWEGIAN HORSE-JOCKEY 372

XXXVI. OUT OF MONEY 381

XXXVII. ICELANDIC TRAVEL 383

XXXVIII. HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN 387

XXXIX. VOYAGE TO SCOTLAND 398

XL. THE JOLLY BLOODS 404

XLI. THE FAROE ISLANDS 408

XLII. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ICELAND 426

XLIII. REYKJAVIK, THE CAPITAL OF ICELAND 431

XLIV. GEIR ZOEGA 440

XLV. THE ENGLISH TOURISTS 445

XLVI. THE ROAD TO THINGVALLA 449