. That massive tower, superimposed above the idol
and forming its magnificent abiding-place, has no superior in all India
for grandeur. Mr. Fergusson, the distinguished writer on architecture,
calls it the most beautiful and effective of all the towers found in
Dravidian temples. The sculptures in the long and dimly lighted
corridors at the base of the temple, and in the first tiers of the
tower, are wonderfully realistic representations of a sensual and
ferocious deity. But, as you stand in the court, and look up the sides
of the tower to the gilded pinnacle on its dome, you discover that all
the upper rows of gods and demons are of stucco. Money evidently gave
out, as the structure rose, and plaster took the place of stone.
The appurtenances of the temple are tawdry and childish. Huge cars, in
which images of the gods are carried about at times of festival, stand
in the courtyard. Each car has its bejeweled beast for the god or
goddess to ride--a wooden elephant, a wooden bull, a wooden rat--each
with trappings of many-colored glass, to imitate rubies and diamonds,
and each with its escort of dusky priests, not forgetting to follow the
foreign visitor and hold out their hands for alms. Yet in these
corridors there were prostrated many absorbed and eager worshipers,
seeking protection or aid from a deity more demonlike than divine. One's
heart grew sick as he realized that, still in these latter days,
The heathen in his blindness
Bows down to wood and stone,
and worships in a temple which exhibits in its halls a hundred immense
images of the male organ of generation.
It was a relief to be conducted by a clergyman of the Anglican faith to
the church where lie buried the remains of Schwartz, the first English
missionary to India. It must have required great gifts of mind and heart
and will to brave Hindu opposition, to win the affection and support of
a raja, and to lay the foundations of a Christian community in this
heathen land. Schwartz was a Prussian by birth, though he went out as a
missionary of a Danish society. He gave his life and his fortune to the
cause of missions, and the English work in Tanjore is even now largely
supported by the endowments which he left behind him when he died. Our
good friend Doctor Blake, the English clergyman, took us to the palace
of the princess of Tanjore, also to the raja's library of Oriental
manuscripts within the palace--a priceless collection of eighteen
thousa
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