hot stones, and finally, the hole was filled
up with earth. After a certain time it was taken out, and proved a more
tender and delicate roast, than the best European cook could have
produced. They dress their vegetables in the same manner, and the
flavour is excellent; the bread-fruit, only, I preferred as baked in
Wilson's European oven.

[Illustration: PLAN OF MATTAWAY BAY AND VILLAGE]

Matarai Bay is rich in finely flavoured fish, of various, sometimes
extraordinary form, and beautiful colours. The Tahaitians eat them
raw, or only steeped in sea-water. Their fishing-tackle consists of
nothing more than bad angling lines and hooks; to make nets as their
forefathers did, would trespass too much upon the time they are obliged
to spend in prayer. Hence fish is so great a rarity to them, that their
eager desire for it sometimes prompts them to belie their good
character, of which we had an example. One of our large nets having
brought up a multitude of fine fish, the temptation was too strong to be
resisted, and our friends would have forcibly shared our acquisition
with us, had not our severe reproof, and the accidental appearance of
the judge of the district, restrained them. They then tried to obtain
the fish by barter, and offered their most valuable tools for the
smallest and worst of them; I gave them, however, so many, that for once
their appetite was fully satisfied with a luxurious repast.

I had heard much of an institution established by the Missionaries for
the instruction of the people, and was desirous to learn what progress
the Tahaitians had made in the rudiments of science. Being informed
that the lessons commenced at sunrise, the first rays of that luminary
found me one morning at the school-house, as I conceived the simple
structure before me to be. Its walls were formed of bamboo canes,
erected singly, at sufficient distances to admit the refreshing breeze
from all sides, and supporting a good roof. The interior was one
spacious quadrangular apartment, provided with benches, and raised seats
for the teachers.

I had not waited long before the pupils of both sexes entered. They were
not lively children, nor youths, whom ardour for the acquisition of
knowledge led to the seat of instruction, but adults and aged persons,
who crept slowly in with downcast looks, and prayer-books under their
arms. When they were all assembled and seated on the benches, a Psalm
was sung; a Tahaitian then rose, placed hi