spect
_them_. And I do see (and hope to be forgiven for seeing it) that a
people which lays itself out to exploit the stranger and the tourist
runs an appreciable risk of deterioration in manliness and
independence. It may seem a brutal thing to say, but as I had rather
be poor myself than subservient, so would I liefer see my countrymen
poor than subservient. It is not our own boast--we have it on the
fairly unanimous evidence of all who have visited us--that hitherto
Cornishmen have been able to combine independence with good manners.
For Heaven's sake, I say, let us keep that reputation, though at
great cost! But let us at the same time face the certainty that,
when we begin to take pay for entertaining strangers it will be a
hard reputation to keep. Were it within human capacity to decide
between a revival of our ancient industries, fishing and mining, and
the development of this new business, our decision would be prompt
enough. But it is not."

I despaired too soon. Our industries seem in a fair way to revive, and
with that promise I recognise that even in despair my willingness to
temporise was foolish. For my punishment--though I helped not to erect
them,--hideous hotels thrust themselves insistently on my sight as I walk
our magnificent northern cliffs, and with the thought of that drain
leading down to Arthur's cove I am haunted by the vision of Merlin erect
above it, and by the memory of Hawker's canorous lines:--

"He ceased; and all around was dreamy night:
There stood Dundagel, throned; and the great sea
Lay, like a strong vassal at his master's gate,
And, like a drunken giant, sobbed in sleep!"

SEPTEMBER.

IN THE BAG, _August 30th_.

At the village shop you may procure milk, butter, eggs, peppermints,
trowsers, sun-bonnets, marbles, coloured handkerchiefs, and a number of
other necessaries, including the London papers. But if you wish to pick
and choose, you had better buy trowsers than the London papers; for this
is less likely to bring you into conflict with the lady who owns the shop
and asserts a prior claim on its conveniences. One of us (I will call him
X) went ashore and asked for a London 'daily.' "Here's _Lloyd's Weekly
News_ for you," said the lady; "but you can't have the daily, for I
haven't finished reading it myself." "Very well," said I, when this was
reported; "if I cannot