e of another hundred dollars as a
present to the courtiers of the great man, in order that they might
induce him to be so kind as to accept of the remaining five hundred! My
agents were greatly assisted by the Wakeel of Makersee of Mourzuk. I
consented to the arrangement on En-Noor's writing a letter to her
Majesty's Government, promising protection to British travellers for the
future; and thus ended this new, and I may say, flagrant series of
exactions. Possibly, had I been alone, I might have been able to hold
out longer and more successfully; but it is somewhat embarrassing to act
with persons who share in your councils without sharing in your
responsibility, and who naturally seek the shortest and easiest method
of getting over all difficulties. The conclusion of the arrangement had
a tranquillising effect upon our encampment, especially on my worthy
German colleagues.

The people have complained to En-Noor that we are "writing the country."
This is an old complaint, and pervades all Northern Africa and the
Desert, "that the Christians come first to write a country, and
afterwards invade or capture it." Travellers, therefore, especially when
they venture to use the pen in public, are looked upon as spies, which
may in part account for the rough treatment they sometimes receive.

Every place has certain things especially in demand. Here nothing goes
down but white calico and very small looking-glasses, which shut up in
boxes. With these we purchase the greater part of our provisions. There
is a little cotton-money about. Our encampment sometimes resembles a
market. The people are curious to observe every action which differs
from theirs. When I promenade a little for exercise, they immediately
turn their eyes upon me with astonishment, and some come to ask what I
do that for. I reply by signs,[17] feeling my legs and stretching them.
This proves satisfactory, for the Kailouees are apparently an active
people, at least in this season; but they moved about little while the
rain lasted, and in the middle of the day they rarely visit us--always
in the morning and in the afternoon. Dr. Overweg has got some patients;
but people generally seem to enjoy very good health in this place. We
have now a great deal of wind instead of rain: it always blows hard in
the latter part of the day. I find this weather very bracing, though the
thermometer at nine P.M. sometimes stands at 83 deg.. The rainy season may
be considered nearly