e,"
as Miss C. said, "dodging in and out of their holes."

At one of the stations a whole band of Indians climbed into the train
with guttural war-whoops and invaded the baggage-car. We thought we
were being "held up," but they behaved themselves very well. The
thought of Buffalo Bill, to say nothing of Mr. Holmes of Texas with his
pistols, reassured us; and the only difference that the presence of the
Indians made to us was that we avoided the baggage-car for our midday
meal.

At another station a quantity of loafers, mostly Indians, smelling
dreadfully of whisky, surrounded us and begged for money. Among them an
old Indian woman who looked like the witch of Endor (they said she was
over a hundred years old) stretched out a long, bony, orang-outang arm,
and when we gave her a few cents the old thing actually grinned with
joy. It was painful to see this creature with the accumulated look of
greed on her withered old brown face.

Our baggage-master always kept his hat on, slouched at a tremendous
angle. We wondered how it could keep on unless it was pinned to his
ear. Mr. Kasson begged us to pretend not to notice it, because the man
was very sensitive on the subject. He told us his story. The man had
been fishing with some friends, near an Indian settlement, when the
Indians attacked them and killed the others outright. The
baggage-master saved his life by "playing 'possum" (as Mr. K. called
pretending to be dead), and the Indians scalped him with a broken tin
can. If he had made the slightest movement they would have despatched
him. How horrible! We wondered if it could be true!

To-morrow "the distinguished party" mentioned in the paper are going to
arrive at Salt Lake City. I will write from there unless I am snatched
up by some craving widower, if there exists such a thing as a
widower--or by some husband with too few wives.

* * * * *

A wild desire possessed us to sit on the cow-catcher in order to get a
better view of the canon. The engineer refused at first, but gave in at
last. He said it was most dangerous.

"You might," he added, "scoop up a Chinaman, or some animal straying on
the rails."

"How exciting!" we cried. "Who but a chosen few have the luck to scoop
up a live Chinaman?"

Johan had the worst place, and therefore the least chance of getting
the Chinaman. He sat up on a little iron seat attached to the boiler,
holding on to the piston for dear life, and every