e superior, when compared
with what we had found at other resting-places; indeed they did not
profess to "_accommodate travellers_," an assurance which is I presume
intended to reconcile the guest to such reception as they choose to
give: but if these people are unwilling to "_profess_," they do not
allow their _scruples_ to limit their _expectations_; these are always
directed towards a recompense, which they are just as eager to receive
as those who accord more to the convenience of the stranger.

Their curiosity is also unparalleled, and when you dismount you are
received with a string of questions; respecting your health. Where you
have been? The news of Rio? Whom you have met on the road? Who are
expected to go up? or down the country? &c. &c. Having obtained all the
information your patience will grant, they at length begin to consider
what provision they can make for you, and generally commence operations
by slaughtering a few fowls, (or sometimes a turkey or a roasting pig;)
then a large pot of water must be boiled to dip the fowls in, by way of
removing the feathers in the most expeditious manner; a practical bull,
for if they plucked the birds the moment they were dead, and before the
body was allowed to cool, the process would be completed in less time
than they could boil the water. After this preparation, they proceed
with their tedious cookery, all of which is conducted in an equally
awkward manner. Sometimes after arriving in the evening, tired and
hungry, three or four hours elapsed, before any knives and forks were
put on the table, or any other visible progress made in the arrangement
of our meal: and not unfrequently my companions gave the matter up in
despair, and resigned themselves to sleep, while all were completely
worn out with waiting, long before the dinner appeared.

_Friday, 8_.--We set out at daylight, and about ten miles distance, we
stopped a short time at a farm house, named Curtomi; we then proceeded
ten miles further to Grandie. Just before we arrived at this place,
about four miles and a half distant, the road from Rio over the Campos,
and the Caminha Real, or Royal road, from Porta de Estrella meet,
forming one main road from hence into the interior. We stopped at a
large house, which belonged to very civil people, where we were well
lodged, and very hospitably entertained.

_Saturday, 9_.--We had a comfortable breakfast before we set off this
morning, and I felt much recruited to-