ading that illustrious Island, which was once the luminary
of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians
derived the benefits of knowledge, and the blessings of religion. To
abstract the mind from all local emotion would be impossible, if it were
endeavoured, and would be foolish, if it were possible. Whatever
withdraws us from the power of our senses; whatever makes the past, the
distant, or the future predominate over the present, advances us in the
dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and from my friends, be such
frigid philosophy as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any
ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man
is little to be envied, whose patriotism would not gain force upon the
plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins
of Iona!
We came too late to visit monuments: some care was necessary for
ourselves. Whatever was in the Island, Sir Allan could command, for the
inhabitants were Macleans; but having little they could not give us much.
He went to the headman of the Island, whom Fame, but Fame delights in
amplifying, represents as worth no less than fifty pounds. He was
perhaps proud enough of his guests, but ill prepared for our
entertainment; however, he soon produced more provision than men not
luxurious require. Our lodging was next to be provided. We found a barn
well stocked with hay, and made our beds as soft as we could.
In the morning we rose and surveyed the place. The churches of the two
convents are both standing, though unroofed. They were built of unhewn
stone, but solid, and not inelegant. I brought away rude measures of the
buildings, such as I cannot much trust myself, inaccurately taken, and
obscurely noted. Mr. Pennant's delineations, which are doubtless exact,
have made my unskilful description less necessary.
The episcopal church consists of two parts, separated by the belfry, and
built at different times. The original church had, like others, the
altar at one end, and tower at the other: but as it grew too small,
another building of equal dimension was added, and the tower then was
necessarily in the middle.
That these edifices are of different ages seems evident. The arch of the
first church is Roman, being part of a circle; that of the additional
building is pointed, and therefore Gothick, or Saracenical; the tower is
firm, and wants only to be floored and covered.
Of the c
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