tempestuous. For half the day the ground was rough, and our horses were
still small. Had they required much restraint, we might have been
reduced to difficulties; for I think we had amongst us but one bridle. We
fed the poor animals liberally, and they performed their journey well. In
the latter part of the day, we came to a firm and smooth road, made by
the soldiers, on which we travelled with great security, busied with
contemplating the scene about us. The night came on while we had yet a
great part of the way to go, though not so dark, but that we could
discern the cataracts which poured down the hills, on one side, and fell
into one general channel that ran with great violence on the other. The
wind was loud, the rain was heavy, and the whistling of the blast, the
fall of the shower, the rush of the cataracts, and the roar of the
torrent, made a nobler chorus of the rough musick of nature than it had
ever been my chance to hear before. The streams, which ran cross the way
from the hills to the main current, were so frequent, that after a while
I began to count them; and, in ten miles, reckoned fifty-five, probably
missing some, and having let some pass before they forced themselves upon
my notice. At last we came to Inverary, where we found an inn, not only
commodious, but magnificent.

The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end. Mr. Boswell had
the honour of being known to the Duke of Argyle, by whom we were very
kindly entertained at his splendid seat, and supplied with conveniences
for surveying his spacious park and rising forests.

After two days stay at Inverary we proceeded Southward over Glencroe, a
black and dreary region, now made easily passable by a military road,
which rises from either end of the glen by an acclivity not dangerously
steep, but sufficiently laborious. In the middle, at the top of the
hill, is a seat with this inscription, 'Rest, and be thankful.' Stones
were placed to mark the distances, which the inhabitants have taken away,
resolved, they said, 'to have no new miles.'

In this rainy season the hills streamed with waterfalls, which, crossing
the way, formed currents on the other side, that ran in contrary
directions as they fell to the north or south of the summit. Being, by
the favour of the Duke, well mounted, I went up and down the hill with
great convenience.

From Glencroe we passed through a pleasant country to the banks of Loch
Lomond, and were receiv