ut if there is no jealousy there is no friendship. The two races are
more absolutely apart than the white and the black. The Asiatic insists
the more on his superiority in the fear perhaps that if he did not the
white might forget it.

Among the sights in the neighbourhood of Port of Spain are the
waterworks, extensive basins and reservoirs a few miles off in the
hills. We chose a cool afternoon, when the temperature in the shade was
not above 86 deg., and went to look at them. It was my first sight of the
interior of the island, and my first distinct acquaintance with the
change which had come over the West Indies. Trinidad is not one of our
oldest possessions, but we had held it long enough for the old planter
civilisation to take root and grow, and our road led us through jungles
of flowering shrubs which were running wild over what had been once
cultivated estates. Stranger still (for one associates colonial life
instinctively with what is new and modern), we came at one place on an
avenue of vast trees, at the end of which stood the ruins of a mansion
of some great man of the departed order. Great man he must have been,
for there was a gateway half crumbled away on which were his crest and
shield in stone, with supporters on either side, like the Baron of
Bradwardine's Bears; fallen now like them, but unlike them never, I
fear, to be set up again. The Anglo-West Indians, like the English
gentry in Ireland, were a fine race of men in their day, and perhaps the
improving them off the earth has been a less beneficial process in
either case than we are in the habit of supposing.

Entering among the hills we came on their successors. In Trinidad there
are 18,000 freeholders, most of them negroes and representatives of the
old slaves. Their cabins are spread along the road on either side,
overhung with bread-fruit trees, tamarinds, calabash trees, out of which
they make their cups and water jugs. The luscious granadilla climbs
among the branches; plantains throw their cool shade over the doors;
oranges and limes and citrons perfume the air, and droop their boughs
under the weight of their golden burdens. There were yams in the gardens
and cows in the paddocks, and cocoa bushes loaded with purple or yellow
pods. Children played about in swarms, in happy idleness and abundance,
with schools, too, at intervals, and an occasional Catholic chapel, for
the old religion prevails in Trinidad, never having been disturbed. What
f