foot even when the monarch was seated. A broad girdle confined it at
the waist. Under it was worn a tunic, or shirt, which reached from the
neck to the knee, and had tight-fitting sleeves that covered the arm to
the wrist. The tunic was purple in color, like the _candys_, or robe,
but striped or mixed with white. The lower limbs were encased in
trousers of a crimson hue. On his feet the the king wore shoes like
those of the Medes, long and taper at the toe buttoned in front,
and reaching very high up the instep: their color was deep yellow or
saffron. [PLATE XXXII., Fig.1.]

[Illustration: PLATE XXXII.]

Thus far the monarch's costume, though richer in material than the dress
of the Persian nobles, and in some points different in color, was on the
whole remarkably like that of the upper class of his subjects. It
was, however, most important that his dress should possess some
distinguishing feature, and that that feature should be one of
very marked prominency. In an absolute monarchy the king must be
unmistakable, at almost any distance, and almost in any light.
Consequences of the gravest kind may follow from any mistake of the
royal identity; and it is therefore essential to the comfort both of
prince and subject that some very conspicuous badge shall mark and
notify the monarch's presence. Accordingly, it appears that the Persian
ruler was to be known by his headdress, which was peculiar alike
in shape and in color, and was calculated to catch the eye in both
respects. It bore the name _kitaris_ or _hidaris_, and was a tall stiff
cap, slightly swelling as it ascended, flat at top, and terminating in a
ring or circle which projected beyond the lines of the sides. Round
it, probably near the bottom, was worn a fillet or band--the diadem
proper--which was blue, spotted with white.

As the other Persians wore either simple fillets round their heads, or
soft, rounded, and comparatively low caps, with no band round them, the
king's headdress, which would tower above theirs and attract attention
by its color, could readily be distinguished even in the most crowded
Court.

It has been asserted that the _kidaris_, or tiara of the Persian kings,
was "commonly adorned with gold and jewelry;" and this may possibly have
been the case, but there is no evidence that it was so. Its material
was probably either cloth or felt, and it was always of a bright color,
though not (apparently) always of the same color. Its distinguis