s subdivided
into those who were the lords of the soil, and those who cultivated it,
either as farmers or as laborers, under them.

The ordinary dress of the poorer class, whether agricultural or nomade,
was probably the tunic and trousers of leather which have been already
mentioned as the true national costume of the people. The costume was
completed by a loose felt cap upon the head, a strap or belt round the
waist, and a pair of high shoes upon the feet, tied in front with a
string. [PLATE XXXVIII., Fig. 2.] In later times a linen or muslin rag
replaced the felt cap, and the tunic was lengthened so as to reach half
way between the knee and the ankle.

[Illustration: PLATE XXXVIII.]

The richer classes seem generally to have adopted the Median costume
which was so prevalent at the Court. They wore long purple or flowered
robes with loose hanging sleeves, flowered tunics reaching to the knee,
also sleeved, embroidered trousers, tiaras, and shoes of a more elegant
shape than the ordinary Persian. Nor was this the whole of their dress.
Under their trousers they wore drawers, under their tunics shirts, on
their hands gloves, and under their shoes socks or stockings--luxuries
these, one and all, little known in the ancient world. The Persians
were also, like most Orientals, extremely fond of ornaments. Men of rank
carried, almost as a matter of course, massive chains or collars of gold
about their necks, and bracelets of gold upon their arms. The sheaths
and handles of their swords and daggers were generally of gold,
sometimes, perhaps, studded with gems. Many of them wore earrings. Great
expense was lavished on the trappings of the horses which they rode or
drove; the bridle, or at least the bit, was often of solid gold, and the
rest of the equipment was costly. Among the gems which were especially
affected, the pearl held the first place. Besides being set in the
ordinary way, it was bored and strung, in order that it might be used
for necklaces, bracelets, and ankles. Even children had sometimes golden
ornaments, which were preferred when the gold was of a reddish color.

Very costly and rich too was the furniture of the better class of
houses. The tables were plated or inlaid with silver and gold. Splendid
couches, spread with gorgeous coverlets, invited the inmates to repose
at their ease; and, the better to insure their comfort, the legs of the
couches were made to rest upon carpets, which were sufficiently e