interesting interiors of Provence meets the eye. "Each of its four
sides," writes Jules de Lauriere, "which correspond to the angles of the
outer square, has a semicircular apse built in the walls themselves. The
eight columns, placed in a circle about the centre of the edifice,
divide it into a circular nave and a central rotunda, and support eight
arches which, in turn, support an octagonal drum, and above this is the
dome." This room is of simple and charming architectural conception, and
even in melancholy ruin, it has much beauty. It gains in comparison with
the re-constructed baptisteries of Provence, for something of a
primitive character has been preserved to which such modern altars and
XVII century trappings as those of Aix and Frejus are fatal. Under the
heavy dust there is visible an unhappy coating of whitewash, traces of a
fire still blacken the walls, fragments of Roman sculpture are scattered
about, and between the columns a pagan altar has been placed for
safe-keeping. The columns themselves are of pagan construction, and as
they differ somewhat in size and capitals, it is not improbable that
they came from the ruins of several of the great public buildings of
Riez. At the time of the baptistery's construction, the barbaric
invasion had begun, and these Roman monuments may have been in ruins;
but in any case, it was a pious and justifiable custom of Christians to
take from pagan structures, standing or fallen, stones and pillars that
would serve for building churches to the "one, true God." The pillars
procured for this laudable purpose at Riez, with their beautiful, carved
capitals, gave the little baptistery its one decoration, and far from
disturbing the simplicity of its style, they add a slenderness and
height and harmony to a room which, without them, would be too stiffly
bare. In the rotunda which they form, excavations have brought to light
a baptismal pool, and conduits which brought to it sufficient quantities
of water for the immersion--whole or partial--that was part of the
baptismal service of the early Church. But the archaeological work has
abruptly ceased, and it is to be deeply regretted that here, in this
deserted place, where the Church desires no present restorations in
accordance with particular rites or modern styles of architecture, there
should not be a complete rehabilitation, a baptistery restored to the
actual state of its own era.

[Illustration: "THE BEAUTIFUL GRANITE COLUMN