n had worn a
wondrous fretwork upon their sides and ribs of blue clay lent this
effect to the whole.

As Paul and Creelman had paddled all night without stopping, the
approach of the second night found them weary and numb with cold. There
were no signs of the Crow Creek Agency and they began to fear that the
settlement had been passed in the darkness. At midnight such a gale
sprang up that they were compelled to land on the east shore under the
shelter of a high cliff. A fire of driftwood was built and supper
cooked. Next morning the sun was melting the ice on the hillsides and
the frost had converted the wild grapes that hung above them into
clusters of pearls. But the beauty of the scene faded into nothingness
when they found they had withstood the cold of the night, while the Crow
Creek Agency was just on the other side of the river. The journey was
resumed in silence and a few miles below, a glimpse of the Stars and
Stripes was caught through an opening between two hills as they neared
Fort Hale, where they were heartily welcomed by the officers and were
soon resting in snug quarters. They remained at Fort Hale over Sunday.

Monday broke clear and there was not a ripple on the surface of the Big
Muddy. By this time, Mr. Creelman had returned to his appetite. At the
start he could not think of drinking coffee made from the dirty river
water and his stomach turned at the thought of eating blue bacon fried
in a pan that was open to receive any little thing that might chance to
drop in. He was now so hardened that he could eat a piece of duck
washed in the thick water, or would snatch a piece of bacon off of the
mud and swallow it with considerable relish.

Early in the afternoon they reached the little town of Chamberlain and
the entire population was out on the bank to see the voyagers pass. An
hour later, the Lower Brule Agency came in sight. Doctor Bergen, of Fort
Hale, and one of the agency officials accompanied them for a few miles
in a canoe, relieving the weary monotony by their pleasant conversation,
while they also gave valuable information regarding several dangerous
points below. Before reaching White river, Boyton frightened an Indian
who was fishing from a bar out of his wits. He darted away leaving his
catch and tackle and they had fresh fish for supper that night. While
eating, a skiff containing two Indians approached and when within a few
feet of the bank, asked Paul in good English