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a moment and
then scampered away across the plain as fast as his legs would carry
him.
That night Paul was met by the Canottiere del Tevere, the leading boat
club of Rome, and was accompanied by them for the rest of the journey.
Next morning, when they neared Rome, they hauled up at a clubhouse for
breakfast. For some miles before they reached the city, people came out
on horseback and on foot, saluting them with vivas. At three o'clock
they pulled into Rome and were welcomed by thousands of people, and
Paul was agreeably astonished at hearing a band play Yankee Doodle in a
house which was profusely decorated with American flags. In fact,
the reception was something indescribable. People were crowded into
every available space. A barge upset in the river, but all the occupants
were saved. Boyton landed at Ripetta Grande and so great was the
pressure of the throng that the iron band about the waist of his dress
was crushed like an eggshell. No end of fetes followed, the citizens
seeming to vie with one another as to which could give the
most splendid entertainment.
Naples was next visited with the intention of crossing the famous bay.
Paul arrived in that city in time for the carnival, and enjoyed seeing
Victor Emanuel, that grim but good natured old king, open the
festivities by driving through the streets and submitting to the
bombardment of confetti. His majesty smiled and bowed as he passed
along, throwing some of it back at those who were standing near. The
confetti is made of plaster of Paris and easily crumbles to powder,
as flour and it is thrown everywhere and at everybody by the gay,
laughing people.
On the afternoon of February 16th, 1877, Boyton crossed on the steamer
to Capri, having decided to start from that point. While on the island
that afternoon, he visited the Blue Grotto, an opening in the island
leading into a cave of rare beauty, which is daily visited by tourists.
A boat passes through the entrance and directly the visitor is
enshrouded in intense darkness; but the moment anything touches the
water, the phosphorus causes it to light up a vivid, silver-like color.
Paul put on his dress and paddled all through the wonderful grotto,
the rubber appearing like a bright, silver armor as he agitated the
water with his paddle.
At three o'clock next morning he started on his trip across the bay from
the steamboat landing. Notwithstanding the early hour,
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