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and continued dropping down the river.
From this place on, the banks presented a very thronged and lively
appearance. Perhaps no other river in the world could be found to equal
that from Mayence to Cologne in the variety of its life and the
multiplicity of its associations. Reception after reception was tendered
the voyager and his party and every place seemed to vie with the
others in the warmth and good will of its welcome. At Geisenheim, the
committee who met Paul on the river, insisted that he must come ashore
as a reception was prepared for him. They landed and found a number of
Americans, including Consul General Webster. About twenty lovely
girls dressed in white and carrying baskets of flowers met the party at
the bank. They all implored Paul to come up with them and see
their picturesque town and insisted that he must join in the parade.
Paul was anxious to continue his way down the river; but the bright eyes
and the sweet, soft tones of the beautiful daughters of the Rhine made
him an easy victim, so a procession was formed, the young ladies
leading and Paul and his party were marched to the hotel, where an
informal reception was held. When they left Geisenheim, the press boat
was literary loaded down with hampers of delicious wine.
That same evening they reached Bingen. Here the Captain was warned to
beware of Bingen Loch and the Lurlei. He took but little stock in the
stories about their dangers and secretly determined to dash right into
the legendary whirlpool. That whirlpool which has been the theme of
Heine's song, has also been the dread of Rhine boatmen from time
immemorial. Legend says it is presided over by a fairy maid who lures
hapless fishermen to the spot by her syren voice and rejoices in their
destruction. The beauty of this part of the Rhine is indescribable.
Mountains tower directly up from the water's edge, here and there dotted
with historic castles. Time after time was Paul's bugle salute answered
on the ramparts far above and many a fair hand waved a handkerchief.
When they approached the Lurlei, the boatmen used superhuman efforts to
get away from the dreaded whirlpool and hugged the opposite shore.
Their cries of:
"This way Captain, the Lurlei," were unheeded by Paul who kept directly
for the jutting rock which causes the eddy known as the whirlpool.
"Where are you going?" thundered out one of the members of the press,
"Come to this
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