the main sight. The only ruins I saw were those of an old castle on the
hill back of the city. The reputed tomb of Polycarp is over this hill
from Smyrna, between two cypress trees, but I do not know that I found
the correct location. Near the place that I supposed to be the tomb is
an aqueduct, a portion of it built of stone and a portion of metal. As I
went on out in the country I entered a vineyard to get some grapes, not
knowing how I would be received by the woman I saw there; but she was
very kind-hearted, and when I made signs for some of the grapes, she at
once pulled off some clusters and gave them to me. She also gave me a
chair and brought some fresh water. More grapes were gathered and put in
this cold water, so I had a fine time eating the fruit as I sat there in
the shade watching a little boy playing about; but I could not converse
with either of them on account of not knowing their language. On the way
back to the city I stopped at the railway station to make inquiries
about a trip to Ephesus.

Most of the streets in Smyrna are narrow and crooked, but there is one
running along the water front that is rather attractive. On one side is
the water, with the numerous vessels that are to be seen in this
splendid harbor, and on the other side is a row of residences, hotels,
and other buildings. The people turn out in great numbers at night and
walk along this street, sometimes sitting down at the little tables that
are set in the open air before places where different kinds of drinks
are dispensed. Here they consume their drinks and watch the free
performances that are given on an open stage adjoining the street and
the grounds where they are seated. Perhaps the most peculiar thing about
it all is the quiet and orderly behavior of this great crowd of people.
While in this city I had occasion to go to the "Banque Imperiale
Ottoman," and learned that it was open in the forenoon and afternoon,
but closed awhile in the middle of the day. I saw a street barber plying
his trade here one day. A vessel of water was put up under the
customer's chin, and held there by keeping the chin down. The barber
had his strop fastened to himself, and not to the chair or a wall, as we
see it at home. Great quantities of oats were being brought down from
the interior on camels. The sacks were let down on the pavement, and
laborers were busy carrying them away. A poor carrier would walk up to a
sack of grain and drop forward on his ha