opens
up or spreads after it is poured, it shows that the mold has been
rammed too little, and if the surface of the sand next to the
pattern is cracked it shows that the mold has been rammed too
hard. It will be found that the edges of the mold can stand a
little more ramming than the middle. In finishing the ramming,
pound evenly all over the surface with the blunt end of the
rammer.

After ramming, scrape off the surplus sand with a straight-edged
stick, as shown at C, and scatter about 1/16 in. of loose sand
over the surface for a good bearing. Place another cover board on
top, as shown at D, and by grasping with both hands, as shown,
turn the drag other side up. Remove the upper cover board and
place the upper half of the flask, or "cope," in position, as
shown at E.

In order to prevent the two layers of sand sticking together, the
surface of the sand at E should be covered with coal-dust. This is
done by shaking the coal-dust bag over the flask, after which the
dust on the pattern may be removed by blowing. The cope is then
filled with sand and rammed in exactly the same manner as in the
case of the drag.

After the ramming is done a number of vent holes are made, as
shown at F, from the surface of the mold to the pattern, in order
to allow the escape of air and steam when the mold is being
poured. These vent holes may be made by pushing a wire about the
size of a knitting-needle down through the sand until it touches
the pattern. The "sprue," or pouring-hole, is next cut, by means
of the sprue-cutter shown at the right, which consists of a piece
of thin brass or steel tubing about 3/4 in. in diameter.

Now comes the critical part of the molding operation--that of
lifting the cope from the drag. It is here that the amateur often
becomes discouraged, as the sand is liable to fall out of the cope
and spoil the mold; but with a little practice and patience the
molder can lift the cope every time without breaking it, as shown
at G.

The next operation is that of cutting the gate, which carries the
molten metal from the sprue to the opening left by the pattern.
This is done with a spoon, a channel being cut about 3/4 in. wide
and about 1/4 in. deep. The pattern is then drawn from the mold,
as shown at H, by driving a sharp pointed steel rod into the
pattern and lifting it from the sand. When a metal pattern is used
a thread rod is used, which is screwed into a tapped hole in the
pattern. Before drawing it is