trymen" and myself, led by a
guide, went through the so-called "Snow Holes" down to Ilsenburg.

Such a head-over-heels, break-neck piece of business! Halle students
travel quicker than the Austrian militia. Ere I knew where I was, the
bald summit of the mountain, with groups of stones strewed over it, was
behind us, and we went through the fir-wood which I had seen the day
before. The sun poured down a cheerful light on the merry Burschen, in
gaily colored garb, as they merrily pressed onward through the wood,
disappearing here, coming to light again there, running across marshy
places on trunks of trees, climbing over shelving steeps by grasping the
projecting tree-roots; while they thrilled all the time in the merriest
manner and received as joyous an answer from the twittering wood-birds,
the invisibly plashing rivulets, and the resounding echo. When cheerful
youth and beautiful nature meet, they mutually rejoice.

[Illustration: THE FALLS OF THE ILSE]

The lower we descend the more delightfully did subterranean waters
ripple around us; only here and there they peeped out amid rocks and
bushes, appearing to be reconnoitring if they might yet come to light,
until at last one little spring jumped forth boldly. Then followed the
usual show--the bravest one makes a beginning, and then to their own
astonishment the great multitude of hesitators, suddenly inspired with
courage, rush forth to join the first. Myriads of springs now leaped in
haste from their ambush, united with the leader, and finally formed
quite an important brook, which, with its innumerable waterfalls and
beautiful windings, ripples down the valley. This is now the Ilse--the
sweet, pleasant Ilse. She flows through the blest Ilse vale, on whose
sides the mountains gradually rise higher and higher, being clad even to
their base with beech-trees, oaks, and the usual shrubs, the firs and
other needle-covered evergreens having disappeared; for that variety of
trees grows preferably upon the "Lower Harz," as the east side of the
Brocken is called in contradistinction to the west side or Upper Harz.
Being in reality much higher, it is therefore better adapted to the
growth of evergreens.

It is impossible to describe the merriment, simplicity, and charm with
which the Ilse leaps down over the fantastically shaped rocks which rise
in her path, so that the water strangely whizzes or foams in one place.
amid rifted rocks, and in another pours forth in perfect a