ole journey,--of the Ali-Mami, or King of
Footha-Yallon, I was entirely exempt by customary law from this
species of tax, nor would my Fullah protector have allowed me to offer
a tribute had he known it;--yet, I always took a secret opportunity to
present a _voluntary gift_, for I wished my memory to smell sweet
along my track in Africa. Suphiana fully appreciated my generosity
under the circumstances, and returned the civility by an invitation to
dinner at the house of his principal wife. When the savory feast with
which he regaled me was over, female singers were introduced for a
concert. Their harps were triangles of wood, corded with fibres of
cane; their banjoes consisted of gourds covered with skin pierced by
holes, and strung like the harps; but, I confess, that I can neither
rave nor go into ecstasies over the combined effect which saluted me
from such instruments or such voices. I was particularly struck,
however, by one of their inventions, which slightly resembles the
_harmonica_ I have seen played by children in this country. A board,
about two feet square, was bordered by a light frame at two ends,
across which a couple of cane strings were tightly stretched. On
these, strips of nicely trimmed bamboo, gradually diminishing in size
from left to right, were placed; whilst beneath them, seven gourds,
also gradually decreasing, were securely fastened to mellow the sound.
The instrument was carried by a strap round the player's neck, and was
struck by two small wooden hammers softened by some delicate
substance.

One of the prettiest girls in the bevy had charge of this African
piano, and was said to be renowned for uncommon skill. Her feet,
hands, wrists, elbows, ankles, and knees, were strung with small
silvery bells; and, as the gay damsel was dancer and singer as well as
musician, she seemed to reek with sound from every pore. Many of her
attitudes would probably have been, at least, more picturesque and
decent for drapery; but, in Jallica, MADOO, the _ayah_, was considered
a Mozart in composition, a Lind in melody, and a Taglioni on the
"light fantastic toe!"

When the performance closed, Suphiana presented her a slave; and, as
she made an obeisance to me in passing, I handed her my _bowie-knife_,
promising to redeem it at my lodgings with _ten pounds of tobacco_!

* * * * *

Some superstitious notions about the state of the moon prevented my
Fullah guide from departing a