wever, the traveller could not afford to supply
himself with one, the boundary was crossed by stealth, and many amusing
anecdotes are told of persons who crossed in some disguise, often that
of a mujik who said he was going to the town on the German side to sell
some goods, carried for the purpose of ensuring the success of the ruse.
When several such tricks had been played on the guards it became very
risky, and often, when caught, a traveller resorted to stratagem, which
is very diverting when afterwards described, but not so at a time when
much depends on its success. Some times a paltry bribe secured one a
safe passage, and often emigrants were aided by men who made it their
profession to help them cross, often suffering themselves to be paid
such sums for the service that it paid best to be provided with a
special passport.

As I said, the difficulties were greater at the time we were travelling,
and our friends believed we had better not attempt a stealthy crossing,
and we procured the necessary document to facilitate it. We therefore
expected little trouble, but some we thought there might be, for we had
heard some vague rumors to the effect that a special passport was not as
powerful an agent as it used to be.

We now prepared to enjoy a little lunch, and before we had time to clear
it away the train stopped, and we saw several men in blue uniforms, gilt
buttons and brass helmets, if you may call them so, on their heads. At
his side each wore a kind of leather case attached to a wide bronze
belt. In these cases they carried something like a revolver, and each
had, besides, a little book with black oilcloth covers.

I can give you no idea of the impression these men (they were German
gendarmes) made on us, by saying they frightened us. Perhaps because
their (to us) impressive appearance gave them a stern look; perhaps
because they really looked something more than grave, we were so
frightened. I only know that we were. I can see the reason now clearly
enough. Like all persons who were used to the tyranny of a Russian
policeman, who practically ruled the ward or town under his friendly
protection, and never hesitated to assert his rights as holder of
unlimited authority over his little domain, in that mild, amiable manner
so well known to such of his subjects as he particularly favored with
his vigilant regard--like all such persons, I say, we did not, could
not, expect to receive any kind treatment at the hands