wards clear and cold, with a splendid moon.

_Friday, October 6th_.--We got under way at 5.30 a.m., and steamed
past the low sandy coast of Patagonia and the rugged mountains of
Tierra del Fuego, and through the First and Second Narrows, to Cape
Negro, where the character of the scenery began to improve a little,
the vegetation gradually changing from low scrubby brushwood to
respectable-sized trees. When passing between Elizabeth Island, so
named by Sir Francis Drake, and the island of Santa Madalena, we
looked in vain for the myriads of seals, otters, and sea-lions with
which this portion of the Straits is said to abound; but we saw only
seven or eight little black spots on the shore, in the distance, which
disappeared into the sea as we approached.

At 3 p.m. we reached Sandy Point, the only civilised place in the
Straits. It is a Chilian settlement, and a large convict establishment
has been formed here by the Government. Almost before we had dropped
our anchor, the harbour-master came on board, closely followed by the
officers of the two Chilian men-of-war lying in the harbour. The rain,
which had been threatening all day, now descended in torrents, and we
landed in a perfect downpour. We thought the pier at Buenos Ayres
unsafe and rickety, but here matters were still worse, for the head of
the structure had been completely washed away by a gale, and no little
care was necessary in order to step across the broken timbers in
safety. The town, which contains between 1,200 and 1,300 inhabitants,
is composed entirely of one-storied log huts, with slate or tile
roofs, and with or without verandahs. They are all arranged in
squares, separated from each other by wide roads; and the whole
settlement is surrounded by stockades. At the further end of the town
stands the convict prison, distinguished by its tower, and the
Governor's house, which, though built of wood, is the most
pretentious-looking edifice in the place. There is a nice little
church close by, and some tidy-looking barracks.

We went straight to the house of the British Vice-Consul, who received
us very kindly, and promised to do what he could to assist us in
obtaining supplies; but the resources of the place are limited, and
eggs, ship's beef and biscuits, and water, will, I expect, be the sum
total of what we shall be able to procure. In fact, it is rather
doubtful whether we shall even be able to renew our stock of coal. In
the meantime we started off t