pect opening out at
every step, and set in an ever-varying natural framework of foliage
and flowers. There was not sufficient time to linger, however, as we
would fain have done, in the cool and shady paths, occasionally
illumed by the bright rays of the sun, shining through the foliage of
noble palms, the fronds of tree-ferns, and the spiral stems of
many-coloured creepers.

Before reaching the top of the peak, there are twenty-nine wooden and
ninety-six stone steps to be ascended, at the foot of which we tied
our horses. An iron chain is hung by the side to assist you, without
which it would be rather giddy work, for the steps are steep, and
there is a sheer precipice on one side of them. Arrived at the top,
the scene was glorious; on every side mountains beyond mountains
stretch far away into the distance, and one can see as far north as
Cape Frio, and southwards as far as Rio Grande do Sul, while beneath
lies the bay of Rio, with its innumerable islands, islets, and
indentations. All too soon we had to scramble down again, and mount
our horses for a hurried return to the hotel, there being barely time
for lunch and a scramble to the yacht.

_Monday, September 4th_.--We were all up very early this morning,
superintending the preparations for our eldest boy's departure for
England. The yacht had been gaily dressed with flags, in honour of the
anniversary of the Emperor's wedding-day; but it must be confessed
that our own feelings were hardly in accordance with these external
symbols of joy. Breakfast was a melancholy meal, and I fear that the
visitors from the 'Volage' were not very well entertained. After
breakfast, we went ashore to the market, to get a couple of
lion-monkeys, which had been kept for us, and which Tab was to take
home with him to present to the Zoological Gardens. At one o'clock the
steam-launch from the 'Volage' came alongside and embarked the luggage
and servants. Half an hour later it returned for us; then came many
tearful farewells to the crew, and we set off. We knew the parting had
to be made, but this did not lessen our grief: for although it is at
all times hard to say good-bye for a long period to those nearest and
dearest to you, it is especially so in a foreign land, with the
prospect of a long voyage on both sides. Moreover, it is extremely
uncertain when we shall hear of our boy's safe arrival; not, I fear,
until we get to Valparaiso, and then only by telegram--a long time to
look f