rrow strip of garden, full of
sweet-smelling flowers, in front of it; the right wing is occupied by
the slaves' shops and warehouses, and by the chapel; while the left
wing contains the stables, domestic offices, and other slave-rooms.

[Illustration: The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna.]

By law, masters are bound to give their slaves one day's rest in every
seven, and any work the slaves may choose to do on that day is paid
for at the same rate as free labour. But the day selected for this
purpose is not necessarily Sunday; and on adjoining fazendas different
days are invariably chosen, in order to prevent the slaves from
meeting and getting into mischief. Thursday (to-day) was Sunday on
this estate, and we soon saw all the slaves mustering in holiday
attire in the shade of one of the verandahs. They were first
inspected, and then ranged in order, the children being placed in
front, the young women next, then the old women, the old men, and
finally the young men. In this order they marched into the corridor
facing the chapel, to hear mass. The priest and his acolyte, in
gorgeous robes, performed the usual service, and the slaves chanted
the responses in alternate companies, so that sopranos, contraltos,
tenors, and basses, contrasted in a striking and effective manner. The
singing, indeed, was excellent; far better than in many churches at
home. After the conclusion of the mass the master shook hands with
everybody, exchanged good wishes with his slaves, and dismissed them.
While they were dawdling about, gossiping in the verandah, I had a
closer look at the babies, which had all been brought to church. They
seemed of every shade of colour, the complexions of some being quite
fair, but the youngest, a dear little woolly-headed thing, was black
as jet, and only three weeks old. The children all seemed to be on
very good terms with their master and his overseers, and not a bit
afraid of them. They are fed most liberally, and looked fat and
healthy. For breakfast they have coffee and bread; for dinner, fresh
pork alternately with dried beef, and black beans (the staple food of
the poor of this country); and for supper they have coffee, bread, and
mandioca, or tapioca.

Returning to the house, we sat down, a party of thirty, to an
elaborate breakfast, the table being covered with all sorts of
Brazilian delicacies, after which several complimentary speeches were
made, and we all started off to walk round the fazenda.