he hot gravy and
milk. Continue these layers until the dish is full, having a layer of
crackers on top. Place the dish in the oven and bake slowly until the
crackers are browned.

_Mushroom Fritters._--Take nice large tops, season, and dip into batter
and fry in hot butter as other fritters.

_Mushrooms en ragout._--Put into a stewpan a little "stock," a small
quantity of vinegar, parsley, and green onions chopped up, salt and
spices. When this is about to boil, the cleaned mushrooms are put in.
When done remove them from the fire and thicken with yolks of eggs.

The Lactarius _deliciosus_ may be served with a white sauce or fried.
Badham says the best way to cook them is to season first with pepper,
salt, and small pieces of butter, and bake in a closely covered pie dish
for about three quarters of an hour.

The Cantharellus, being somewhat dry, requires more fluid sauce in
cooking than the juicier mushrooms, and is best minced and slowly stewed
until quite tender. Some advise soaking it in milk a few hours before
cooking. The Italians dry or pickle it or keep it in oil for winter use.

Persoon gives the following recipes for cooking the Morel: 1st. Wash and
cleanse thoroughly, as the earth is apt to collect between the ridges;
dry and put them in a saucepan with pepper, salt, and parsley, adding or
not a piece of bacon; stew for an hour, pouring in occasionally a little
broth to prevent burning; when sufficiently done, bind with the yolks of
two or three eggs, and serve on buttered toast.

2. _Morelles a l'Italienne._--Having washed and dried, divide them
across, put them on the fire with some parsley, scallion, chives,
tarragon, a little salt, and two spoonfuls of fine oil. Stew till the
juice runs out, then thicken with a little flour; serve with bread
crumbs and a squeeze of lemon.

MUSHROOM GROWING.[A]

[A] A part of the matter presented under this caption was contributed by
the author to the Health Magazine and appeared in the March number
(1897) of that periodical.

To France is due the credit of being the first country to cultivate
mushrooms on a large scale, and France still supplies the markets of the
world with canned mushrooms. The mushroom which is cultivated in the
caves and quarries of France, to the exclusion of all others, is the
Agaricus arvensis (the "Snowball"), a species of field mushroom.

Of late years France has found a formidable competitor in the culture of
mushrooms in Gre