d-class passengers. A Sikh native officer spoke kindly to me and
offered me some cardamoms, and then the whistle blew. The passengers
hurried to their seats, and we were left alone.

A railway porter entered into conversation, and, finding who we
were, directed us to go to the village, where there was a Christian
preacher. We went to the caravanserai, where there were some Afghan
traders sitting on a bed. They seemed surprised at getting a greeting
in Pashtu, but returned it heartily. Then I saw a well-dressed man
walking off towards the bazaar, and something in his face and a book
in his hand seemed to indicate him as the Christian preacher, and,
on introducing ourselves, we found we were not mistaken. He asked us
into his house to rest, and informed us that he was an agent of the
Scotch mission at Gujrat. After the rebuff of the morning we were
loth to say that, though the sun was now declining towards the west,
we were still awaiting our breakfast; so after a time I rose to go,
when, to our no small satisfaction, the kind man asked us to stop
till tea was ready.

It was my custom at most of the towns to preach in the bazaar, and
usually, during or after the preaching, someone in the audience would
offer us hospitality. When we reached Pind Dadan Khan, however, it
was too late for this, darkness having set in; and after wandering
about the bazaar for a time, and talking to a few people, none of
whom offered us hospitality, we went to the public serai, or inn,
known as "Victoria Ghar," where travellers can rest without payment,
and spent the night there. Someone had given us two pice, and with
this we bought a pice chapati and a pice of sugarcane, and dined
off this. Being thirsty, I asked a respectable Muhammadan who was
dining on a bed hard by for a glass of water. He gave it; but when
I raised the glass to my lips, he said: "I would like to know first
what your religion is." I replied: "I am a Christian." Hearing this,
the gentleman took the glass from me, saying: "I do not wish to sully
my glass with your touch." This was a bigotry which I am glad to say
I rarely met with, and is certainly not justified by the teaching of
the Quran, which permits commensality with Christians and Jews.

After this rebuff we did not care to ask any other inhabitant of
the place for water. The next day we travelled on to Khewra, and,
on passing through the bazaar, saw the Government doctor, a Hindu
assistant-surgeon, sitting outsid