r to that of the Beaver Indians, but
they understand the Cree, which is the medium of communication between
Mr. F. and them. It thus appears that this language is understood from
the shores of Labrador to the foot of the Rocky Mountains.

After passing the portage, the Rocky Mountains reared their snow-clad
summits all around us, presenting a scene of gloomy grandeur, that
had nothing cheering in it. One scene, however, struck me as truly
sublime. As we proceeded onward the mountains pressed closer on the
river, and at one place approached so near that the gap seemed to have
been made by the river forcing a passage through them. We passed in
our canoes at the base of precipices that rose almost perpendicularly
above us on either side to the height of 3,000 or 4,000 feet! After
passing through these magnificent portals, the mountains recede to
a considerable distance, the space intervening between them and the
river being a flat, yielding timber of a larger growth than I expected
to find in such a situation.

We arrived at McLeod's Lake--Mr. Fraser's post--on the 25th, where
a number of Indians were waiting their supplies. They received us
quite in a military style, with several discharges of fire-arms, and
appeared delighted at the arrival of their chief. They seemed to be
on the best possible terms together--the white chief and his _red
"tail"_. They are Tsekanies, and are reputed honest, industrious, and
faithful.

The outfit for this post is conveyed on horse-back from Stuart's Lake.
A more dreary situation can scarcely be imagined, surrounded by
towering mountains that almost exclude the light of day, and snow
storms not seldom occurring, so violent and long continued as to bury
the establishment. I believe there are few situations in the country
that present such local disadvantages; but there is the same miserable
solitude everywhere; and yet we find natives of England, Scotland,
and Ireland devoting their lives to a business that holds forth
such prospects! I remained with my new friend one day, enjoying the
comforts of his _eyry_, and then set off for the goal of my long
course, where I arrived on the 28th of October.

CHAPTER XVIII.

ARRIVAL AT NEW CALEDONIA--BEAUTIFUL SCENERY--INDIAN HOUSES--AMUSEMENTS
AT THE FORT--THREATENED ATTACK OF INDIANS--EXPEDITION AGAINST
THEM--BEEF-STEAKS--NEW CALEDONIAN FARE--MODE OF CATCHING
SALMON--SINGULAR DEATH OF NATIVE INTERPRETER--INDIAN FUNERAL
RITES--BARBAROUS T