d in nothing.
Some of the natives here, and at Sesheke, know a few of the low tricks of
more civilized traders. A pot of milk was brought to us one evening,
which was more indebted to the Zambesi than to any cow. Baskets of fine-
looking white meal, elsewhere, had occasionally the lower half filled
with bran. Eggs are always a perilous investment. The native idea of a
good egg differs as widely from our own as is possible on such a trifling
subject. An egg is eaten here with apparent relish, though an embryo
chick be inside.

We left Mosi-oa-tunya on the 27th, and slept close to the village of
Bakwini. It is built on a ridge of loose red soil, which produces great
crops of mapira and ground-nuts; many magnificent mosibe-trees stand near
the village. Machimisi, the headman of the village, possesses a herd of
cattle and a large heart; he kept us company for a couple of days to
guide us on our way.

We had heard a good deal of a stronghold some miles below the Falls,
called Kalunda. Our return path was much nearer the Zambesi than that of
our ascent,--in fact, as near as the rough country would allow,--but we
left it twice before we reached Sinamane's, in order to see Kalunda and a
Fall called Moomba, or Moamba. The Makololo had once dispossessed the
Batoka of Kalunda, but we could not see the fissure, or whatever it is,
that rendered it a place of security, as it was on the southern bank. The
crack of the Great Falls was here continued: the rocks are the same as
further up, but perhaps less weather-worn--and now partially stratified
in great thick masses. The country through which we were travelling was
covered with a cindery-looking volcanic tufa, and might be called
"Katakaumena."

The description we received of the Moamba Falls seemed to promise
something grand. They were said to send up "smoke" in the wet season,
like Mosi-oa-tunya; but when we looked down into the cleft, in which the
dark-green narrow river still rolls, we saw, about 800 or 1000 feet below
us, what, after Mosi-oa-tunya, seemed two insignificant cataracts. It
was evident that Pitsane, observing our delight at the Victoria Falls,
wished to increase our pleasure by a second wonder. One Mosi-oa-tunya,
however, is quite enough for a continent.

We had now an opportunity of seeing more of the Batoka, than we had on
the highland route to our north. They did not wait till the evening
before offering food to the strangers. The aged wife of