stalked through the gloom to
some intrigue of love or villainy, and here passed cassocked priest and
barefooted friars, long years ago. Here sparkling eyes looked forth
from some twilight lattice what time from the street below arose the
soft notes of a serenading guitar. As to the sparkling eyes and the
serenading lover and the balconies, these are not gone; they are
imperishable in Mexico. Here is a description of Mexico of years
ago--the Mexico of the viceroys--which I will translate freely from the
description of a Mexican writer of to-day, and which in some respects
might almost describe the city at the present time: "Hail, mediaeval
city, redolent of sentimental recollections and romantic impressions
such as well might be the creation of fantastic romance! Clustered with
monasteries and convents, turreted dwellings and sombre monuments,
bathed in an atmosphere of orisons and melancholy, threaded by foul and
ill-paved alleys, made for crime, intrigue, and mystery; where buried
in the profundity of night love and wickedness both stalked forth;
strange temples and niches lit by twinkling lamps before the images of
saints; recollections of diabolical Inquisitorial rites--a romantic and
fantastic shroud, dissipated now, torn into shreds by the iron hand of
destiny, and banished or transfigured by the torch of progress!"

[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL OF THE CITY OF MEXICO.]

As has been said, the construction of the houses of Mexico was of solid
type, with walls such as might serve for fortresses rather than
dwellings, and when from necessity, some old building is demolished it
can only be performed by the aid of dynamite. So builded the Spaniards,
and their work will outlast the more ephemeral structures of to-day.
Indeed, at the beginning of the colonial period and throughout the
sixteenth century, the buildings actually were constructed both as
dwellings and fortresses. At the end of that century a greater
refinement of architectural art appeared--as a natural outcome of
corresponding conditions in Spain--in the colonies. The great cathedral
of Mexico was constructed, due to a mandate of Philip II. It was
dedicated in 1667, but not concluded until the beginning of the
nineteenth century, and into its facade enter the Doric, Ionic, and
Corinthian orders. It is an exceedingly handsome building, both
interiorily and exteriorily, and it stands upon the spot where the
great Aztec _teocalli_ stood--the shrine of the abom