. There were not many people at mass; those who were present,
appeared to be chiefly composed of old women, and young children. Over
the charity box fastened to one of the pillars was a board upon which
was written in large letters "Hospices reconnoissance et prosperite a
l'homme genereux et sensible." I saw few people affected by this
benedictory appeal. I next visited the church of St. Ouens, which is not
so large as the cathedral, but surpasses that, and every other sacred
edifice I ever beheld, in point of elegance. This graceful pile, has
also had its share of sufferings, during the reign of revolutionary
barbarism. Its chaste, and elegant pillars, have been violated by the
smoke of sulphur and wood; and in many places, present to the distressed
eye, chasms, produced by massy forges, which were erected against them,
for casting ball. The costly railing of brass, gilt, which half
surrounded the altar, has been torn up, and melted into cannon. The
large circular stained window over the entrance called La Rose du
Portail is very beautiful, and wholly unimpaired. The organs in all the
churches are broken and useless. They experienced this fate, in
consequence of their having been considered as fanatical instruments
during the time of terrour. The fine organ of St. Ouens is in this
predicament, and will require much cost to repair it[6].

[6] The ornaments of the churches of England experienced a similar fate
from the commissioners of the Long Parliament, in 1643.

I cannot help admiring the good sense which in all the churches of
France is displayed, by placing the organ upon a gallery over the grand
entrance, by which the spectator has an uninterrupted view, and commands
the whole length of the interior building. In the English cathedrals, it
is always placed midway between the choir and church, by which, this
desired effect is lost.--St. Ouens is now open for worship.

In spite of all the devastations of atheistic Vandalism, this exquisite
building, like the holy cause to which it is consecrated, having
withstood the assailing storm, and elevating its meek, but magnificent
head above its enemies, is mildly ready to receive them into her bosom,
still disfigured with the traces of blind and barbarous ferocity.

Behind the altar, I met the celebrated prince of Waldec. He, who
possessed of royal honours, and ample domains, revolted in the day of
battle, from his imperial master, and joined the victorious and pursuing