the Messagerie, from which the diligences, all
of which are under the control of the nation, set out. The morning was
very beautiful. I was much entertained before I mounted that cumbrous
vehicle, which was to roll me a little nearer to my own coast, by
viewing the numerous groups of travellers and their friends, who
surrounded the different carriages as the horses were tackling to them.
In different directions of my eye, I saw about thirty men kissing each
other. The women in France never think their prerogatives infringed by
this anti-anglo mode of salutation. Some shed tears at parting; but the
cheek down which they trickled never lost its colour or vivacity. All
were animated; every eye looked bright; there was a gayety in their very
grief. "Bon voyage, bon voyage--Dieu vous benisse, Dieu vous benisse,"
reiterated on all sides from sprightly faces, stretched out of the
window frames of the massy machine, as it rattled through the gates of
the yard, to the incessant crackings of the postilion's long lash. I
soon afterwards found myself seated in the diligence for Cherbourg, in
company with two ladies, and three gentlemen, who were all polite and
pleasing. In the cabriole, forward, was a french captain in the army,
who had been in Tippoo's service at the time of the surrender of
Seringapatam. He looked abominably dirty in his travelling habiliments;
but that, in France, is now no just indication of inferiority or
vulgarity.
We passed by the Place de la Concorde, upon the statues and buildings of
which, and the gardens of the Thuilleries, the fresh and early sun shone
most beautifully. My merry, but feeling fellow travellers, waving their
hands, addressed a short apostrophe to these suburb objects, and
exclaimed, "adieu ma tres jolie ville--ah! tres jolie ville adieu."
For near three miles after leaving the barrier, we passed through
plantations of roses, which supply the markets of Paris with that
beautiful flower, which, transferred thence, adorn the toilets, the
vases, and the bosoms of the fair parisians, and form the favourite
bouquets of the petite maitres; on each side of the road were cherry
trees, in full bearing, which presented a very charming appearance. We
soon reached the water works of Marli, which supply the jets d'eau of
Versailles. They are upon a vast scale, and appear to be very curious. A
little further on we passed Mal Maison, the country, and chief residence
of the first consul and his family.
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