opulated for three days, so I send a day back. I don't know where we
are, and the people are deceitful in their statements; unaccountably so,
though we deal fairly and kindly. Rain, rain, rain as if it never tired
on this watershed. The showers show little in the gauge, but keep
everything and every place wet and sloppy.

Our people return with a wretched present from Chitunkue; bad flour and
a fowl, evidently meant to be rejected. He sent also an exorbitant
demand for gunpowder, and payment of guides. I refused his present, and
must plod on without guides, and this is very difficult from the
numerous streams.

_24th January, 1873._--Went on E. and N.E. to avoid the deep part of a
large river, which requires two canoes, but the men sent by the chief
would certainly hide them. Went 1-3/4 hour's journey to a large stream
through drizzling rain, at least 300 yards of deep water, amongst sedges
and sponges of 100 yards. One part was neck deep for fifty yards, and
the water cold. We plunged in elephants' footprints 1-1/2 hour, then
came on one hour to a small rivulet ten feet broad, but waist deep,
bridge covered and broken down. Carrying me across one of the broad deep
sedgy rivers is really a very difficult task. One we crossed was at
least 2000 feet broad, or more than 300 yards. The first part, the main
stream, came up to Susi's mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held
up my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn, and when he
sank into a deep elephant's foot-print, he required two to lift him, so
as to gain a footing on the level, which was over waist deep. Others
went on, and bent down the grass, to insure some footing on the side of
the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces brought us to a clear
stream, flowing fast in its own channel, while over all a strong current
came bodily through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had the
first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab-looking man, then
Amoda, then Chanda, then Wade Sale, and each time I was lifted off
bodily, and put on another pair of stout willing shoulders, and fifty
yards put them out of breath: no wonder! It was sore on the women folk
of our party. It took us full an hour and a half for all to cross over,
and several came over turn to help me and their friends. The water was
cold, and so was the wind, but no leeches plagued us. We had to hasten
on the building of sheds after crossing the second rivulet, as rain
threatened us.