imple but distinctive view of
it, and one uncaught by the searchlights of the official minute, the
scientist's lore, and the war correspondent's art.

But, my prospective reader, as you finger this slight volume at the
bookstall, I trust that this preface may at once catch your eye, so
that, if what you want to read about Tibet is an elaborate appreciation
or a collection of solid information, you may drop the book like the
proverbial hot potato before that jealous-eyed man behind the stall
makes you buy it as a punishment for fingering it, and may seize instead
upon one of those weightier tomes that are now racing it through the
press.

POWELL MILLINGTON.

_November 1904._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
PREFACE v

I. THE WRITING ON THE WALL 1

II. PRELIMINARIES 6

III. THE BASE 13

IV. TO GNATONG 18

V. MOUNTAIN SICKNESS: GNATONG: WAYSIDE
WITTICISMS 25

VI. OVER THE JALAP-LA: CHUMBI: BEARDS 32

VII. TO PHARI 42

VIII. TO KANGMA 51

IX. NAINI: TIBETAN WARFARE 59

X. AT GYANTSE: FIGHTING: FORAGING:
TIBETAN RELIGIOUS ART 67

XI. THE START FOR LHASSA: A DIGRESSION
ON SUPPLY AND TRANSPORT 77

XII. TO RALUNG: MORE SUPPLY MATTERS:
A VISIT TO A MONASTERY 92

XIII. THE KARO-LA 99

XIV. NAGARTSE: ENVOYS: DEMOLITIONS:
BATHS: BOILING WATER 105

XV. LAKE PALTI: DRAWING BLANK: PETE-JONG 112

XVI. OVER THE KAMBA-LA: THE LAND OF
PROMISE 122

XVII. THE CROSSING OF THE TSANGPO: A SAD
ACCIDENT 126

XVIII. THE END OF THE CROSSING: THE 'CHIT'
IN TIBET 134

XIX. MONASTERIES: FORAGING IN MONASTERIES:
A DREAM 140

XX. REACHING LHASSA: SUPPLIES: MESSING:
THE LHASSA BAZAAR 149

XXI. ENOUGH OF LHASSA: A TRIP DOWN
COUNTRY: