ast. A luxurious growth of trees and shrubs fringed the low,
and in some places submerged, river shores. Back, on the higher, sandy
soils, the yellow pine forests, in almost primeval grandeur, arose,
shutting out all view of the horizon. Low bluffs, with white, sandy
beaches of a few rods in extent, offered excellent camping-grounds.

When the Cracker of Okefenokee Swamp is asked why he lives in so
desolate a region, with only a few cattle and hogs for companions, with
mosquitoes, fleas, and vermin about him, with alligators, catamounts,
and owls on all sides, making night hideous, he usually replies, "Wal,
stranger, wood and water is so _powerful_ handy. Sich privileges ain't
met with everywhar."

As I glided swiftly down the dark current I peered into the dense woods,
hoping to be cheered by the sight of a settler's cabin; but in all that
day's search not a clearing could be found, nor could I discern rising
from the tree-tops of the solitary forest a little cloud of smoke
issuing from the chimney of civilized man. I was alone in the vast wilds
through which the beautiful river flowed noiselessly but swiftly to
the sea. Thoreau loved a swamp, and so do all lovers of nature, for
nowhere else does she so bountifully show her vigorous powers of growth,
her varied wealth of botanical wonders. Here the birds resort in flocks
when weary of the hot, sandy uplands, for here they find pure water,
cool shade, and many a curious glossy berry for their dainty appetites.

[Illustration: From St. Simon's Sound, Georgia, to Cedar Keys, Florida.

Route of Paper Canoe MARIA THERESA From St. Simon's Sd.
Ga. to Cedar Keys, Fla. Followed by N. H. Bishop in 1875
_Copyright, 1878 by Lee & Shepard_]

As the little Maria Theresa sped onward through the open forest and
tangled wild-wood, through wet morass and piny upland, my thoughts dwelt
upon the humble life of the Concord naturalist and philosopher. How he
would have enjoyed the descent of this wild river from the swamp to the
sea! He had left us for purer delights; but I could enjoy his "Walden"
as though he still lived, and read of his studies of nature with
ever-increasing interest.

Swamps have their peculiar features. Those of the Waccamaw were indeed
desolate, while the swamps of the St. Mary's were full of sunshine for
the traveller. Soon after the canoe had commenced her river journey, a
sharp sound, like that produced by a man striking the water with a
broad, flat stick, re