d to land much against my inclination, and
in doing so was drenched to the skin, but had managed to get dry before
a fire in the marshes. So the kind old man piled small logs in the great
kitchen fireplace, and told me tale upon tale of his life as a
school-master out west; of the death of his wife there, and of his
desire to return, after long years of absence, to his native Delaware,
where he could be comfortable, and have all the clams, oysters, fish,
and bay truck generally that a man could wish for.

"Now," he added, "I shall spend my last days here in peace." He
furnished an excellent supper of weak-fish or sea trout (_Otolithus
regalio_), fried oysters, sweet potatoes, &c.

This locality offers a place of retirement for men of small means and
limited ambition. The broad bay is a good sailing and fishing ground,
while the great marshes are the resort of many birds. The light, warm
soil responds generously to little cultivation. After a day of hunting
and fishing, the new-comer can smoke his pipe in peace, to the music of
crackling flames in the wide old fireplace. Here he may be
_comfortable_, and spend his last days quietly vegetating, with no
criticisms on his deterioration, knowing that he is running to seed no
faster than his neighbors.

The wind had gone to rest with the sun, and the sharp frost that
followed left its congealed breath upon the shallow pools of water
nearly half an inch in thickness by morning. From my bed I could see
through the window the bright flashes from Cape May and Cape Henlopen
lights. Had not misfortune beset me, a four-hours' pull would have
landed me at Lewes. There was much to be thankful for, however. Through
a merciful Providence it was my privilege to enjoy a soft bed at the
Willow Grove Inn, and not a cold one on the sands of Slaughter Beach. So
ended my last day on Delaware Bay.

CHAPTER VIII.

FROM CAPE HENLOPEN TO NORFOLK, VIRGINIA.

THE PORTAGE TO LOVE CREEK.--THE DELAWARE WHIPPING-POST.--REHOBOTH AND
INDIAN RIVER BAYS.--A PORTAGE TO LITTLE ASSAWAMAN BAY.--ISLE OF WIGHT
BAY.--WINCHESTER PLANTATION.--CHINCOTEAGUE.--WATCHAPREAGUE
INLET.--COBB'S ISLAND.--CHERRYSTONE.--ARRIVAL AT NORFOLK.--THE
"LANDMARK'S" ENTERPRISE.

[Illustration: From Cape Henlopen, Delaware, to Norfolk, Virginia.

Route of Paper Canoe MARIA THERESA From Lewes, Del. to
Norfolk, Va. Followed by N. H. Bishop in 1874
_Copyright, 1878 by Lee & Shepard_]

My first thought the next morning wa