nate in a point,
covered with the finest works of art all classed and numbered so as to
afford the utmost facility of inspection; no questions asked on
entering, no money to be given to bowing porters or butlers, no cards of
admission procured by interest--all open to the public view, unfettered
and unshackled; the liberality of the exhibition is increased by the
appearance of Easels and desks occupied by artists who copy at leisure.
It is noble and grand beyond imagination. In the Halls below are the
Statues, arranged with equal taste, though, as they are in different
rooms, the general effect is not so striking. I recognised all my old
friends, the Venus de Medicis was alone new to me. She is sadly
mutilated, but is still the admiration of all persons of sound judgment
and orthodox taste, amongst whom, I regret to say, I deserve not to be
classed, as I really cannot enter into the merits of statues, and the
difference between a perfect and moderate specimen of sculpture appears
to me infinitely less than between good and moderate paintings....

After dining at a Restaurateur's, who gave us a most excellent dinner,
wine, &c., for about 3s. a head, we went to the Theatre Francais, or the
Drury Lane of Paris. We expected to see Talma[44] in Merope, but his
part was taken by one who is equally famous, Dufour, and the female part
by Mme. Roncour. She was intolerable, though apparently a great
favourite; he tolerable, and that is all I can say. In truth, French
tragedy is little to my taste.... The best part of the play was the
opportunity it afforded "les bonnes gens" de Paris to show their
loyalty, and much gratified I was in hearing some enthusiastic applause
of certain passages as they applied to the return of their ancient
sovereign. There is something very sombre and vulgar in the French
playhouses with the men's boots and the women's bonnets. Could I in an
instant waft you from the solitudes of Stoke to the clatter of Paris,
how you would stare to see the boxes filled with persons almost
extinguished in their enormous casques of straw and flowers. I have seen
several bearing, in addition to other ornaments, a bunch of 5 or 6
lilies as large as life....

[Illustration: POMP. NOTRE DAME.

_Paris, July 11, 1814._

_To face p. 115._]

LETTER IV.

PARIS, _July 8, 1814_.

You will take for granted we have seen all the exhibitions, libraries,
&c., of Paris; they will wait for more ample description--a glance on