o the San Gregorio to see the
frescoes, the 'Martyrdom of St. Andrew,' the rival frescoes of
Guido and Domenichino, and afterwards drove about till dark, when
we went to a most extraordinary performance--that of the
Flagellants. I had heard of it, and had long been curious to
assist at it. The church was dimly lit by a few candles on the
altar, the congregation not numerous. There was a service, the
people making the responses, after which a priest, or one of the
attendants of the church, went round with a bundle of whips of
knotted cord, and gave one to each person who chose to take it. I
took mine, but my companion laughed so at seeing me gravely
accept the whip, that he was obliged to hide his face in his
hands, and was passed over. In a few minutes the candles were
extinguished, and we were left in total darkness. Then an
invisible preacher began exhorting his hearers to whip themselves
severely, and as he went on his vehemence and passion increased.
Presently a loud smacking was heard all round the church, which
continued a few minutes; then the preacher urged us to fresh
exertions, and crack went the whips again louder and faster than
before as he exhorted. The faithful flogged till a bell rang; the
whips stopped, in a few minutes the candles were lit again, and
the priest came round and collected his cords. I had squeezed
mine in my hands, so that he did not see it, and I brought it
away with me. As soon as the candles were extinguished the doors
were locked, so that nobody could go out or come in till the
discipline was over. I was rather nervous when we were locked up
in total darkness, but nobody whipped me, and I certainly did not
whip myself. A more extraordinary thing (for sight it can't be
called) I never witnessed. I don't think the people stripped,
nor, if they did, that the cords could have hurt them much. From
thence to St. Peter's, where we found the _quarant' ore_ and the
high altar illuminated with heaps of candles. Only a few lights
scattered at a great distance through the rest of the church,
very few people there; but the dim light, the deep shades, the
vast space, and the profound stillness were sublime. Certainly
nothing in the world can approach St. Peter's, and it always
presents something new to admire.

From St. Peter's to the Vatican, to see the statues by
torchlight. The effect is wonderful, and totally unlike that
which is produced by day. The finest statues unquestionably gain
the m