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to snatch an hour's sleep; but my guide was kept chattering by the natives, who listened with amazement to his news. They knew no Spanish, and could not understand the native patois I spoke; neither could I understand a word of what they said. As for Castro, I suppose no man in South America had the gift of so many Indian dialects. "After all, lieutenant," exclaimed he, as we took leave of this simple community, "I doubt if these people have not the best of life. They eat, drink, and are at peace, caring no more for a president than for a king." "And doing nothing for either," I replied, laughing. "How does the horse seem now?" "I think he will do this journey. But if I'm to ride with the colonel, he will have to provide me with another." Throughout the evening we rode silently side by side, while all around us was the awful stillness of a dead world. The sun went down, and presently the stars gleamed above us, throwing a ghostly light over the sea of sand. Midnight found us still riding, and another hour passed before Castro drew rein at the broken track leading from Tacna to Arica. Throwing the reins over his horse's neck, and jumping down, he examined the ground carefully, reading it as skilfully as the student reads a printed book. To and fro he went, casting off here and there like a hunting-dog, till he was satisfied. Then he returned to me, saying, "Carts have gone by hours since, and the infantry quite recently, but I see no signs of cavalry." "They would remain till the last minute, so as to deceive La Hera." "That is so; but the question is, has the colonel stayed with them? It is to him we want to give our information." "The infantry can tell us." "We shall waste time if he is in the rear, and time is precious." "Let us separate. You go forward; I will ride toward Tacna." "It is dangerous, senor." "You forget that I have been over this route." "Well, as you will. If the colonel has not passed, I shall return. Keep to the track; do not wander from it either to right or to left." "All right, Castro; I will take care." He vaulted to the saddle, wished me a safe journey, and rode off, while I turned my horse's head in the opposite direction. Fortunately the night was clear, while the dawn was not far off, so that I had a great advantage in steering my way. True, I rode at no great pace, being both afraid and unwilling to spur my jaded beast. Now and again I even
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