ity and the Baie des Anges, especially at sunset.
At the end of the Quai du Midi (excuse my diffidence, the Quai des
Etats-Unis) stands the low Tour Bellanda, the only tower remaining of
the old fortifications. The Chateau is a promontory, and when you take
the road which skirts it, be sure to hold tight to your hat. The
Nicois call the windy corner Rauba Capeu (Hat Robber).

Now you are in still another Nice, the Port, protected by a long jetty,
on which is perched a lighthouse. The Nicois, traditionally seafaring
folk, are proud of their little port, with its clean-cut solid stone
quays. Steam-born transportation on land and sea, demanding facilities
undreamed of in the good old days and tending to concentration of trade
at Marseilles and Genoa, has prevented the maritime development of
Nice. But there is local coast traffic and competition with Cannes and
Monte Carlo for yachts. Fishing and pleasure sailing add to the volume
of tonnage. And the Nicois do not let you forget that their city is
the port for Corsica.

Beyond the harbor, the Boulevard de l'Imperatrice de Russie leads to
Villefranche. Another name to change! In the midst of what is most
beautiful we cannot get away from tragedies, from reminders of blasted
hopes.

CHAPTER X

ANTIBES

Between Menton and Monte Carlo the coast is broken by Cap Martin,
between Monte Carlo and Nice by Cap Ferrat, between Nice and Cannes by
Cap d'Antibes. The capes are larger and longer as we go west, just as
the distances between more important towns grow longer. Although it
does not seem so to the tourist, it is much farther from Nice to Cannes
than from Nice to Menton. The eastern end of the Riviera is so crowded
with things to see, and town follows town in such rapid succession,
that you think you have gone a long way from Nice to the Italian
frontier. And except for skipping the two larger promontories, railway
and tramway alike follow right along the coast. From Nice to Cannes,
the tramway is inland from the railway. So is the automobile road.
You fly along at a rapid rate, with only rare glimpses of the sea, and
pass through few villages until you reach Antibes.

From Nice, from Saint-Paul-du-Var, and from Cagnes you cannot see the
Riviera coast beyond Antibes. The Cape, with its lighthouse and fort,
is your horizon. This corresponds with history as well as with
geography: for the Cap d'Antibes was the old Franco-Italian frontier.
It is stil