erion we could distinguish Tourette and Levens side
by side with their castles, and in the foreground Vence. To the left
was Tourrettes. Back from the Valley of the Loup was exploration and
sketching ground for another season. But just a few kilometers ahead
of us, halfway to Villeneuve-Loubet, Biot tempted us. We had driven
through this town not mentioned by Baedeker, and had promised ourselves
a second visit to the old church of the Knights Templar. But life
consists of making choices, and one does not readily turn his back on
the Cap d'Antibes. In the town you are just at the beginning of the
peninsula whose conical form and unshutinness (is that a word: perhaps
I should have used hyphens?) enables you to walk five miles punctuating
every step with a new exclamation of delight.

Only we did not walk. Joseph-Marie, who would have been Giuseppe-Maria
at Nice, stopped to look over the Artist's shoulder and incidentally to
suggest that we might have cigarettes. A veteran of two years at
twenty, his empty left sleeve told why he was _reforme_. Glad to get
out of the mess so easily, he explained to us laconically; and now he
was eking out his pension by driving a cart for the Vallauris pottery.
The express train "burned" (as he put it) the pottery station, and he
had come to put on _grande vitesse_ parcels at Antibes. Cannes was a
hopeless place for the potters: baskets of flowers always took
precedence there over dishes and jugs. The Artist believed that
Joseph-Marie's horse could take us around the cape with less effects
from the heat than we should suffer, and that for ten francs
Joseph-Marie could submit to his boss's wrath or invent a story of
unavoidable delay. I agreed. So did Joseph-Marie. If we proved too
much heavier than pottery, we would take turns walking. At any rate,
the Artist's kit had found a porter.

We took the Boulevard du Cap to Les Nielles, were lucky in finding the
garden of the Villa Thuret open, and then let our horse climb up the
Boulevard Notre-Dame to the lighthouse on top of La Garoupe, as the
peninsula's hill is called. Here the Riviera coast can be seen in both
directions. The view is not as extended as that of Cap Roux, for
Cannes is shut off by the Cap de la Croisette. But in compensation you
have Nice and the hill towns of the Var, and while lacking the clear
detail of Cap Ferrat and Cap Martin you get the background of the
Maritime Alps which is not visible east of Nic