about 3 P.M., at
which hour I was horrified to meet her arrayed in silks and satins, and
to find that she was the wife of my host. She kindly took me a drive
with her in a carriage and pair, and with a coachman in livery.

It was by this simple means, and by thus imposing myself upon the
hospitality of these unsophisticated people, that I worked my way by slow
degrees, chiefly on foot, into the part of the country I desired to
visit; and I trust that I in a measure repaid them for it by the stores
of information which I imparted to them, and of which they stood much in
need, and by little sketches of their homes and the surrounding scenery,
with which I presented them. I was, indeed, dependent in some measure
for hospitality of this description, as I had taken no money with me,
partly because, to tell the truth, I had scarcely got any, and partly
because I was afraid of being robbed by brigands of the little I had. I
therefore eschewed the character of a _milordo Inglese_; but I never
succeeded in dispelling all suspicion that I might not be a nephew of the
Queen, or at least a very near relative of "Palmerston" in disguise. It
was so natural, seeing what a deep interest both her Majesty and the
Prime Minister took in Italy, that they should send some one _incognito_
whom they could trust to tell them all about it.

Meantime, I was not surprised, when I came to know the disposition of the
inhabitants, at the success of brigandage. It has never been my fortune
before or since to live among such a timid population. One day at a
large town a leading landed proprietor received notice that if he did not
pay a certain sum in black-mail,--I forget at this distance of time the
exact amount,--his farm or _masseria_ would be robbed. This farm, which
was in fact a handsome country-house, was distant about ten miles from
the town. He therefore made an appeal to the citizens that they should
arm themselves, and help him to defend his property, as he had determined
not to pay, and had taken steps to be informed as to the exact date when
the attack was to be made in default of payment. More than 300 citizens
enrolled themselves as willing to turn out in arms. On the day preceding
the attack by the brigands, a rendezvous was given to these 300 on the
great square for five in the morning, and thither I accordingly repaired,
unable, however, to induce my host to accompany me, although he had
signed as a volunteer. On reaching