the curious masses of
ore resting on the polished surface of rock, the islands struck yearly
by lightning, the islands which abound in lizards although these reptiles
are scarce elsewhere--all these make the Lake of the Woods a region
abounding in Indian legend and superstition. There are isles upon which
he will not dare to venture, because the evil spirit has chosen them;
there are promontories upon which offerings must be made to the Manitou
when the canoe drifts by their lonely shores; and there are spots watched
over by the great Kennebic, or Serpent, who is jealous of the treasures
which they contain. But all these things are too long to dwell upon now;
I must haste along my way.

On the second morning after leaving Rat Portage we began to leave behind
the thickly-studded islands and to get out into the open waters. A
thunder-storm had swept the lake during the night, but the morning was
calm, and the heavy sweeps were not able to make much way. Suddenly,
while we were halted for breakfast, the wind veered round to the
north-west and promised us a rapid passage across the Grande Traverse to
the mouth of Rainy River. Embarking hastily, we set sail for a strait
known as the Grassy Portage, which the high stage of water in the lake
enabled us to run through without touching ground. Beyond this strait
there stretched away a vast expanse of water over which the white-capped
waves were running in high billows from the west. It soon became so rough
that we had to take on board the small canoe which I had brought with me
from Rat Portage in case of accident, and which was towing astern. On we
swept over the high-rolling billows with a double reef in the lug-sail.
Before us, far away, rose a rocky promontory, the extreme point of which
we had to weather in order to make the mouth of Rainy River. Keeping the
boat as close to the wind as she would go, we reeled on over the tumbling
seas. Our lee-way was very great, and for some time it seemed doubtful if
we would clear the point; as we neared it we saw that there was a
tremendous sea running against the rock, the white sprays shooting far up
into the air When the rollers struck against it. The wind had now
freshened to a gale and the boat laboured much, constantly shipping
sprays. At last we were abreast of the rocks, close hauled, and yet only
a hundred yards from the breakers. Suddenly the wind veered a little, or
the heavy swell which was running caught us, for we began t