St. Paul was a very favourable specimen
of the American hostelry; its proprietor was, of course, a colonel, so it
may be presumed that he kept his company in excellent order. I had but
few acquaintances in St. Paul, and had little to do besides study
American character as displayed in dining-room, lounging-hall, and
verandah, during the hot fine days; but when the hour of sunset came it
was my wont to ascend to the roof of the building to look at the glorious
panorama spread out before me-for sunset in America is of itself a sight
of rare beauty, and the valley of the Mississippi never appeared to
better advantage than when the rich hues of the western sun were gilding
the steep ridges that over hang it.

CHAPTER SIX.

Our Cousins--Doing America--Two Lessons--St. Cloud--Sauk Rapids--"Steam
Pudding or Pumpkin Pie?"--Trotting him out--Away for the Red River.

ENGLISHMEN who visit America take away with them two widely different
sets of opinions. In most instances they have rushed through the land,
note-book in hand, recording impressions and eliciting information. The
visit is too frequently a first and a last one; the thirty-seven states
are run over in thirty-seven days; then out comes the book, and the great
question of America, socially and politically considered, is sealed for
evermore. Now, if these gentlemen would only recollect that impressions,
which are thus hastily collected must of necessity share the
imperfection of all things done in a hurry, they would not record these
hurriedly gleaned facts with such an appearance of infallibility, or,
rather, they might be induced to try a second rush across the Atlantic
before attempting that first rush into print. Let them remember that even
the genius of Dickens was not proof against such error, and that a
subsequent visit to the States caused no small amount of alteration in
his impressions of America. This second visit should be a rule with every
man who wishes to read aright, for his own benefit, or for that of
others, the great book which America holds open to the traveller. Above
all, the English traveller who enters the United States with a portfolio
filled with letters of introduction will generally prove the most
untrustworthy guide to those who follow him for information. He will
travel from city to city, finding everywhere lavish hospitality and
boundless kindness; at every hotel he will be introduced to several of
"our leading citizens;" newspape